Surfing again has reconnected me to a part of myself I thought was lost. Just sitting out there on the board, legs dangling, hand pushing through the surf, listening to the sounds of the ocean I felt whole again.
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There is a before and after Rockaway in my life. Same as there is a before and after my cancer. I can’t even imagine how it would be to transition into this new life, if I didn’t have Rockaway,
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