To be wild is to be yourself. For me, the hardest part of my journey has been loving every part of who I am—the good, the bad, and the messy. I think once you reach that point of self-acceptance, you can truly live life to the fullest. I feel my most wild when I’m with my friends, doing crazy dances and making random noises.
Read MoreSurfing again has reconnected me to a part of myself I thought was lost. Just sitting out there on the board, legs dangling, hand pushing through the surf, listening to the sounds of the ocean I felt whole again.
Read MoreWhen I first started noticing couples surfing together, I wanted to know more about how a relationship with the ocean enhances a romantic relationship? I met Mike and Akiyo a few years ago. I’d see them on the beach and surfing solo or with friends and then started spotting them going out together. I could tell immediately a beautiful friendship radiated at the core of their life together.
Read MoreWhen I’m having a bad day I go surf. When I’m having a great day I go surf. The ocean never fails to remind me everything is temporary, bad or good. It puts me back into the current moment, to just be, and be okay.
Read MoreThere is a before and after Rockaway in my life. Same as there is a before and after my cancer. I can’t even imagine how it would be to transition into this new life, if I didn’t have Rockaway,
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