When I’m having a bad day I go surf. When I’m having a great day I go surf. The ocean never fails to remind me everything is temporary, bad or good. It puts me back into the current moment, to just be, and be okay.
Read MoreYou know that feeling you get when you walk into a room that you’re not supposed to be in and everyone turns to look at you, it’s a little like that. Paddling out on big days I’m often the only female surfer out there at my local jetty.
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