The Sun and the Moon and the Stars
To be wild is to be yourself. For me, the hardest part of my journey has been loving every part of who I am—the good, the bad, and the messy.
Farmata Dia, raised by Senegalese immigrant parents in Far Rockaway, New York, discovered her passion for surfing and mentoring through The Laru Beya Collective in 2016. Committed to empowering young women of color, she advocates for women’s rights, environmental justice, and community upliftment. As a mentor and model, she is breaking barriers and redefining representation in surfing, modeling, and skating.
“Really immerse yourself in the community. These days, it’s all about who you know more than what you know. It only takes one person to change your life or jump-start your career.”
Farmy and Rockaway are synonymous. She is as much a fixture in this intimate hamlet by the sea as dolphins, jetties, and surfboards. I’ve known her almost as long as I’ve been in Rockaway but honestly can’t remember what it was like not to know her. And as cliché as it is, to know Farmy is to love her. She’s fun, fearless, honest, quirky, and cool. Our friendship blooms in a constant drift of creative and personal growth. Farmy and I work together often, shooting surf, a film (still in the works), and numerous Laru Beya events. Always up for anything, she excitedly agreed to model for this surf culture meets fashion photo shoot in a unique to us beach location. We used my beloved Dry Robe changing robe as a dressing room and shot three different looks thrifted and styled by me. We started our shoot with a blood red Xscape cocktail dress, next a Shein satin baby blue cocktail dress, and wrapped up the late afternoon with a black Bebe blazer, Uniqlo dress pants, a black tie borrowed from my husband’s wardrobe, and a Fahizo silk bow tie. The last part of the shoot I added a little body glitter to play off the light from the sun and the moon, both competing as our backdrop, while Farmy stood tall among the dunes and butterflies danced around us.
*No dunes were touched as we only used established beach paths for our entire shoot.
You’ve been enjoying great success with your modeling career, shooting with cool brands and publications like Teva, Finisterre, Heroine Mag, and Teen Vogue. I’m always hyped when I see your photo pop up on brand pages. I’m wondering if you have a shoot that really stands out in your mind as momentous?
“ To be wild is to be yourself. ”
FD: My favorite shoot to date would probably be the campaign trip with Seea. We traveled to what felt like paradise and surfed some of the longest waves I’ve ever experienced—waves that made my legs burn, gave me time to think, and let me create incredible memories with beautiful people. While the surfing was incredible, it was the group I traveled with that made the trip so special.
My dream of surfing with one of my idols, Leah Dawson, came true. Leah truly embodies the art of surfing. The media crew was full of talented creatives who made shooting effortless, and the Seea team was inspirational with their hard work and dedication. Jo and Annabelle, the other winners, were so cool. Hearing their stories and realizing how we all ended up in the same place was such a unique experience.
Any advice for someone interested in modeling?
FD: My advice would be to start by building a portfolio. The first step is getting your digitals done. From there, connect with small photographers, stylists, and other models—really immerse yourself in the community. These days, it’s all about who you know more than what you know. It only takes one person to change your life or jump-start your career. Attend events, make sure people see your face, and post often on social media. Share fun things about yourself—it doesn’t have to be just photos. Videos showcasing your personality, adventures, or interests can go a long way.
Farmy models a Doyle Surfboard
What are some of your favorite brands you’ve worked with?
FD: Some of my favorite brands are Finisterre, Seea, Ricki Beach Club, Vans, Fat Tire, and Kings Glassing. I’ve been so fortunate to travel the world with them—it’s honestly hard to keep up sometimes! Going to Europe for the first time with Finisterre is one of my top three trips. Their focus on sustainability and ethical practices resonates deeply with me. I like to joke that they’re what Patagonia wishes it could be! Creating my own sustainable swimwear collection with Ricki Beach Club was another highlight. The process was so smooth, and using my community and personal experiences as inspiration for the designs felt like a dream come true. Fat Tire is such a fun brand! Every adventure I’ve shared with them has been a delight. I even got to shape my first surfboard with Kings Glassing, which was a surreal moment. That experience was especially meaningful because we raffled off some boards to support a Laru Beya fundraiser.
“The more we invest in our community, the better our quality of life. ”
What’s a brand you’d like to work with but haven’t yet?
FD: I’d love to branch out and collaborate with brands beyond the surf world. Red Bull or Monster, for example, do such cool things with their crews and events. Also, I’ve been fascinated by wave pools lately! I’d love to work with a wave pool brand or become an ambassador for one—it’s such a unique and fun experience that not many people get to have. Another dream is to find the intersection between high fashion and surf culture. I’d love to explore collaborations involving clothing, accessories, and shoes that merge those two worlds.
We’ve talked many times about your complicated relationship with Rockaway. I think everyone has some sort of challenge with home. Growing up, you hated it and felt like there was nothing to do. The ocean and surfing changed all that. Where are you now in your ever-evolving relationship with this place?
FD: Right now, I feel at peace with Rockaway. This community has done so much to shape who I am today. I’ve created so many beautiful memories here that I’ll cherish forever. That said, growing up here my entire life, I’m starting to feel the routine of it—the same faces, the same surf breaks, the same travel patterns. It’s starting to feel stagnant. I’ve been saying this for years, but I really want to move to California. That’s my goal after I finish school. I feel like once I’ve wrapped up what I need to do here, I’ll be ready for new waves, new faces, and a different flow of life.
“No matter how hard life feels, everything will be okay. The highs and lows allow us to appreciate both sides of life. ”
Congratulations on going back to school! Where and what are you studying? And what made you decide to take that huge leap and return?
FD: I’m studying Professional Communication at Brooklyn College. The past few years have given me so much clarity about my purpose in life and how I want to impact the world. Speaking on panels and becoming a voice in my community inspired me to go back to school. Being surrounded by so many intelligent people can sometimes feel overwhelming—I often feel like I don’t know enough. Going back to school is partly for me, to prove that I can do it. It’s a personal challenge that will also help me grow and add value to my work.
What’s your plan for after graduation?
FD: While I’m in school, my plan is to save as much money as I can and prepare to move to California. Once I graduate, I’m hoping to make the move within a few months. I recently started a new job with the Justice Center, and I was excited to learn that they have locations in California where I could potentially transfer. Surfing brings me joy, but building community and making a direct impact is what keeps me going. My long-term goal is to open my own nonprofit. I’ll continue working toward that dream while growing my community and honing my surfing skills in California.
What are you reading right now?
FD: I just finished Where the Crawdads Sing, The Love Hypothesis, and If Beale Street Could Talk. Each of these books resonated with me in different ways. Crawdads reminded me of my upbringing and childhood mentality. The Love Hypothesis was a light, fun read that took me back to my Wattpad days, staying up until 1 a.m. crying over fanfiction. I’ve been intentional about finding books that help me learn about myself and explore the world through different perspectives.
Farmata models an Almond Surfboard
What is one thing people would be surprised to know about you?
FD: I’m a total weirdo, haha. I’m much more awkward than people expect when I meet them—I tend to overthink everything. I also love anime! I grew up watching it and still do. Oh, and I’m a Leo. One of my favorite animals? A worm.
Over a great conversation about a recent trip to Idaho, we shared laughs about stretching creative and personal boundaries. Can you tell us about that trip?
FD: My trip to Idaho felt like a dream. The warm sun on my face while looking at snow-covered mountaintops—it was surreal. Hanging with Terumi and Autumn in the middle of nowhere felt magical. We recreated beautiful photos of past Olympians but with a cultural twist. The outfits, makeup, and storyline were all out of this world.
What does *Wild* mean to you?
FD: To be wild is to be yourself. For me, the hardest part of my journey has been loving every part of who I am—the good, the bad, and the messy. I think once you reach that point of self-acceptance, you can truly live life to the fullest. I feel my most wild when I’m with my friends, doing crazy dances and making random noises.
What are two or three things you know for sure?
FD:
1. One thing I know for sure is that I don’t know anything! There’s always something new to learn and a fresh perspective to consider.
2. No matter how hard life feels, everything will be okay. The highs and lows allow us to appreciate both sides of life.
3. The more we invest in our community, the better our quality of life. Being with Laru Beya for the past seven years has taught me that the grass really is greener where you water it. Share resources, show up for one another, and create spaces that uplift everyone.
Fire and Water
If you’re not having fun, what are you doing wrong? How can you change that? I wasn’t having fun at the end of my Wall Street days, so I built a rum distillery.
Over the summer while riding the ferry to a brand gig, the tv caught my attention as a neon pink can of ROCKAWAY SODA flashed on the screen. Transforming into tourist mode, I pulled out my phone to take a photo and celebrate the moment. I’ve known Bridget aka @drinkrockaway via Instagram for a few years. She’s fun, engaging, full of energy, and supportive when I’ve had a business question or needed a photography event sponsor. She’s never once hesitated. I’m a huge fan of her delicious healthy sodas in bright cans covered in beautiful Rockaway graffiti and an even bigger fan of her business savvy. Bridget’s a powerhouse. She’s been on the Forbes 30 Under 30, managed a successful Wall Street career, and created New York’s only rum distillery. All the while, Bridget has never lost her intimate relationship with New York City, the ocean, and her beloved Rockaway.
On a cloudy Saturday morning, Bridget drives from her place in the city and meets me at my place in Rockaway. We’ve rescheduled a few times. Even though the unexpected clouds present a different sort of photo shoot, we agree to just do it. Carrying a backpack and a box of Rockaway Soda tucked under her arm, she tells me she’s nervous as we hug and combine all of our bags and props for our shoot. She’s taller in person with a lion’s mane of wild, glorious golden hair and a powerful, energetic presence. She smiles a lot, and it’s totally infectious, erasing any initial fears I had of her possibly being intimidating. Literally the minute our bare feet hit the sand, the rain starts. In true Bridget form, she’s entirely committed as my muse for the next hour and a half.
A week later I meet Bridget at the Chambers Street train stop, her work and home hub, a spot where past and present intersect. The epitome of cool, she’s wearing a plain black t-shirt, light washed jeans, and a pair of black and white hightop Vans. Whether in shorts on the beach or Vans on the street, Bridget looks right at home. It’s who she is as a person. She takes a brief second to “shake it out,” which makes us both laugh, before transforming back into muse mode. Listening to my direction, she poses on the street as people rush past us. Wrapping up shooting on the subway steps, we head towards the pier as she points out places that have always been a part of her life, like the building where she attended high school, the bar where she and her friends partied religiously back in the day and almost bought together when it recently came on the market. A quick wardrobe change, and she’s in a faux fur vest, slim pants and a long gold chain with a beautiful lion charm her parents gifted her years ago. We roam less crowded streets for our final part of the shoot, where we’re able to chase light and be bold.
Riley: Bridget, thank you so much for talking with me. Really excited for this interview and our beach photo shoot!
BF: Me too! I’m so happy to be collaborating with you. Your photos are so powerful and I’ve been such a fangirl from behind the screen. Plus another Rockaway ocean lover - a match made in heaven!
This wild side of the city changed my life five years ago. I’d completely lost my connection to the outdoors while focusing on raising a family and building a career. It wasn’t until I moved to Rockaway as an empty nester that I reconnected with being outside and in nature and embracing that peacefulness and lifestyle change. How have you managed staying connected to the wild, what you’ve called your happy place, while running your businesses?
BF: It’s funny - I love both the chaos and fiery energy of the NYC streets and the calm of the ocean. I’m a Leo (major fire sign) and I thrive in the intensity of the city energy but, I need the water to soothe me. I’m sure it’s part that and part that I was born and raised in Rockaway on the beach and in the ocean – it truly is home. On the sand and in the water is where I feel the most at peace. I maintain this particular fire-water balance by spending my weekdays in Manhattan focusing on my business and using the city’s energy to fuel me and I spend the weekends in Rockaway slowing down (a challenge for me!). The quiet, desolate off season is my favorite. The winter beach, cold water plunges, ah the best.
What is the major difference(s) in running ROCKAWAY SODA and running Owney’s Rum?
BF: Oh boy. How much time and space do we have for this response? Haha. Everything is different. The fact that they are both liquids might be the only commonality. I’m being a little facetious, but : different consumable categories, different sales channels, different distributors, different brands/messages/aesthetics, different missions. I’m also coming at ROCKAWAY SODA from a much different perspective and tons of experience – it’s more about my home and soul, it has a more purposeful mission to provide a healthy alternative to traditional soda, and more about conscious consumption offering a give back to the planet. I’m thinking much bigger. I know more. I’m setting up the fundamentals to have a sound and solid foundation for growth and scale. It’s leveling up 100%+.
Why is it so important for ROCKAWAY SODA to have Surfrider as a partner, and what exactly does that mean?
BF: I think it’s important for ROCKAWAY SODA to have a non-profit partner that has a mission that’s aligned. In this case it’s to put resources towards ocean conservation. We worked through our accreditation and partnership with 1% for the Planet to find the Surfrider Foundation whose values are synergistic with our mission at ROCKAWAY SODA. It was so important for me to have a pillar to this company that invoked conscious consumption. I believe you can do well by doing good. Obviously the ocean is near and dear to me so it was the clear choice in determining our ‘why’ and where to put our consumers’ hard earned dollars to work. 1% of all sales made of ROCKAWAY SODA go directly to helping protect the ocean. Soda that’s better-for-you and better-for-the-planet.
“Kicking yourself back into balance in real time is powerful.”
What’s your earliest memory of the ocean?
BF: I think Memorial Day weekends when I was really young – maybe like 3 or 4 years old. My Dad always jumped in the water to start the season with one of our neighbors. As you know, the water is still pretty cold at the end of May and the air temperature is a crapshoot (it was generally very mild in May 35+ years ago). But, as a kid you don’t remember the cold and without a doubt we were going to the beach and kicking off the summer season. There are some good home vhs videos somewhere…
What do you love most about Rockaway Beach?
BF: The people. It’s so old school and community oriented. Everyone’s hanging out in real life and looking out for each other. My friends from childhood in Rockaway are the definition of chosen family. Deep roots - a really hard thing to come by in 2024.
It seems as if everything you touch turns to gold. To some, it may even seem effortless. But if you pull back the curtain, and take a look inside, it’s instantly obvious that work ethic, drive, and confidence guide your success. What does it take to be successful? And how do you build the confidence to go with it?
BF: Haha I’m glad I’m maintaining such an image on the outside. This perception makes it look and sound so simple. As you say, there is so much behind the scenes work. Not only the endless to-do lists, everyday problems to solve, general capacity to figure shit out and think on large and small scales, but the more I grow and push the limits the more I realize the biggest key to success is ultimately a mind game. If you can conquer the voices in your head or at least learn to flow with them you will win. It is MUCH easier said than done. It’s a constant, evolving, never ending process if you keep pushing yourself to new levels. And there are endless levels. The mental health tolls of taking huge risks without any guarantees or visibility into the future can be debilitating. So many unknowns. So many uncontrollable variables. I read recently that entrepreneurs are a lot like artists – seeking chaos. And the successful entrepreneurs excel at thriving in and temporarily controlling the chaos. It resonated with me. I work on my mindset every day - wanting to occupy the one I call ‘totally unstoppable’. I do this through heightening my awareness and use many tools and tactics – moving my body, breathwork, journaling, vision boards, deep internal listening, stillness, slowing down. You have to push past the mind and go into the gut and heart. Align all three as frequently as possible and you will stay true to yourself, your decision making will come from a grounded place and your vision will remain sharp.
Chambers Street Subway Station, New York City
You and your husband have been together since you were kids, right? I mean that’s a success too. Relationships are hard. Do you feel like you approach personal relationships in much the same way you approach work?
BF: Yes, Harry and I have been together for close to 20 years. Wild! I truly believe that he is my soulmate. That sounds so lame and I am FAR from a romantic. But, you hear a lot of luck talk in interviews with successful business people. I think I got lucky finding and connecting with Harry (thanks to a nudge from mutual good friends). It has, for the most part, really been effortless. We just work. He’s seen me since before I even got my first job on Wall Street and now through the ups and downs of 2 businesses since. This time with a family on the line. I could not be authentically me without his multifaceted support. A true partner in every sense of the word.
As far as personal relationships outside of my marriage, I do not approach them the same way as work. I don’t overthink them. I tend to think A LOT about business which is my gift and also a curse. My personal relationships are easier. I don’t strategize them. Less effort. No push or force. More fluid. However, I show up big. That’s a similarity. I don’t take them for granted and understand they require work. I make time. I give big energy. I also have to say that I’ve attracted a pretty stellar group of friends over the years who I am also eternally grateful for – they fill me with joy, security and positive energy.
How did having your son change you?
BF: Also need a book’s worth of space to answer this one. So many of the things ‘they’ say are true. You can never really be prepared for what’s going to happen when you have a child. For me, it totally stopped me in my tracks. Like the initial high of a new baby was incredible – literally nothing else seemed to matter. This was it. I had struggled with the decision to have or not to have children for years and ultimately decided to jump in and was SO glad I did once Neilan was born. Then the dust settled and the identity crisis set in. How could I combine my old self with my new self? What needed to shed and be let go? What were my new priorities? What was most important? I’d say it took about 12-18 months to figure that out and it’s ever changing. I now prioritize my time a lot differently and only hold space and energy for what truly matters in my new definition of ‘what matters.’ The whole experience is so joyful, so destabilizing, so humbling, so fulfilling, so exhausting and has provided SO MUCH GROWTH in such a short period of time. Truly incredible. Forever grateful.
You talk a lot about balance. In theory it sounds simple, but I believe it’s anything but simple. Why is balance so important? What are your keys to finding and maintaining balance in your life, both personally and professionally?
BF: Balance and alignment is key to maintaining correct, grounded energy levels. You are constantly getting pushed off the tracks of alignment and you have to come back to center. There is so much noise in the world. Maintaining balance helps you approach circumstances from a better state which gives clarity of thought and leads to more effective decision making which renders a higher probability of a better outcome and a more likely chance that everything will turn out great. A game of chance for sure, but self regulation helps keep you in command. I feel a bit like a broken record, but it’s about awareness and knowing yourself and what you need. Recognizing your pace, your energy, your emotional and physical states. And figuring out and eventually knowing what you need to realign and balance. For me, it’s physical movement, deep thought, hard work, good rest, fun, partying, eating healthy, indulging, laughing, crying. In my opinion you need it all. And you should have everything you want because you really can have it all. You can create the space. Knowing what’s in your tool box and what works for you is so clutch. Some days I need a walk, some days I need a nap, some days I need to be at my desk in deep thought for hours on end, some days I need 2 martinis and a basket of fries for dinner, some days I need green juice and salads, some days I just need to jump around and scream. It’s really an imperfect science. It’s self care but often you just don’t get it right and you're off the tracks for a while until you re-balance. But if you go too far away from yourself, you’ll burn out and then you’re screwed. Productivity down. Decision making power down. Negative thoughts. Loss of mindset. Crash. Takes a lot more effort to pick yourself back up from that. Kicking yourself back into balance in real time is powerful.
“What you focus on expands—it will fuel you.”
What advice would you give someone who’s thinking of starting a business?
BF: Commit. Commit. Commit. To everything. Surrender to lows. Enjoy and soak in the little wins along the way (something I could get way better at!). Focus on the wins. Keep a list. Refer back to it. What you focus on expands - it will fuel you. Find practices that help you work on your mindset that keeps your energy right to stay in the game. Use them. Every day. Multiple times a day. Be amenable to change (it’s inevitable and frequent), but hold a clear vision. Like super clear. As granular as possible. For today, tomorrow, this week, this month, this quarter, this year, and then next 4 years. Check in with the vision. Allow yourself to change it but gut check - know when it’s YOU changing the vision or all the loud ass noise that’s going to be circulating around you at all times. Acknowledge the external voices and the internal ones. Continuously truth-seek and re-establish your truth. It’s allowed to change when it needs to. Be open to all the possibilities. The closer you get to the truth the better your decision making capabilities will be. Get quiet. Often. Get still and listen to your gut. Out of your head and into your heart and gut. Just keep moving.
Who are your role models?
BF: My parents. They are so strong. Tough. And so smart. And so savvy. And so tenacious. And humble. And kind. They came from the streets of Brooklyn and took themselves to new heights. I am who I am because they supported me, taught me how to build businesses and to persevere. To stay in the fight.
One of the things I admire most about you is your lack of fear. You just seem ready to conquer anything and everything that comes your way. And if it doesn’t come your way, you’ll go and get it yourself. What’s your relationship with fear?
BF: Oh I have fears - lots of them! I’m internally terrified and externally calm. I think the challenge and work is to create the right relationship with fear. Or with any of your thoughts, emotions and feelings for that matter. When I started Owney’s Rum, there was way less fear. I was young, blindly naive, and so very driven. There were lows and fear but I didn’t know enough so there was less to worry about. With ROCKAWAY SODA I know too much post Owney’s experience and I also now have a family to concern myself with. I think the key is to continue heightening your awareness and get to know yourself better every day. Understand the thought patterns, the triggers, the loops, etc. Catch them, pop them. Don’t let the fear, which is a future based emotion not founded in truth, grip you and cause a spiral. I have some tricks that help me. Sometimes I catch the thought and do 10 jumping jacks or burpees to move the energy and change the state. Shake it off. Say “No” to the thought and shut that shit down. Sometimes I go through a series of logical and rational questions that I ask myself – ‘What is the worst thing that could happen? How likely is it to occur? Can I control that outcome? If so, what can I do right now to take action to mitigate the risk and reduce the worst case scenario?’ Then I take what I need from the answers in the form of action, or let the thought go if there is no basis. Fast. The faster you act or let go, the better. No festering. It helps to rewire your brain and default mode network. It’s neuroplasticity in action.
It’s oh so pivotal to have pockets of fun and find moments of joy in every day and to notice them and drink them in.
And fun? What role does fun play in your life? I gotta admit, it looks like you have a lot of fun in your day to day life.
BF: Fun is everything! At the end of the day, every day is a gift. And most everything else - fears, worry, stress, bs - is so meaningless when you take the pause to step back (easier said than done). If you’re not having fun, what are you doing wrong? How can you change that? I wasn’t having fun at the end of my Wall Street days, so I built a rum distillery. I wasn’t having fun working for the company that acquired Owney’s, so I started a soda company. I’m not saying all day every day is fun. But it’s oh so pivotal to have pockets of fun and find moments of joy in every day and to notice them and drink them in. Life is too short.
Fun with a toddler looks a bit different than fun looked before (haha) and I’m sure fun when my son is a bit older will look different yet again. Fun is so energizing and helps me stay in the game! Go out and play, however you might define that – drinking, laughing, dancing, games, new experiences, new restaurants, travel. With other people in the damn flesh. It can be so life giving. Make time for it – prioritize it in your calendar.
I love quotes. Powerful quotes feed my soul, especially when I’m in need of a little boost. Do you have a favorite quote?
BF: I also love quotes! So I can’t pick a favorite. Here are some of my go-tos:
Everyone has a plan until they get punched in the face. - Mike Tyson
You, me, or nobody is gonna hit as hard as life. But it ain't how hard you hit; it's about how hard you can get hit, and keep moving forward. How much you can take, and keep moving forward. That's how winning is done. - Rocky
There are only two options regarding commitment. You’re either IN or you’re OUT. There is no such thing as life in between. ~ Pat Riley
I really think a champion is defined not by their wins, but how they can recover when they fail. - Serena Williams
My motto was always to keep swinging. Whether I was in a slump or feeling badly or having trouble off the field, the only thing to do was keep swinging. - Hank Aaron
It’s more difficult to stay on top than to get there. - Mia Hamm
If you have everything under control, you’re not moving fast enough. – Mario Andretti
During my 18 years, I came to bat almost 10,000 times. I struck out about 1700 times and walked maybe 1800 times. You figure a ball player will average 500 at bats a season. That means I played seven years without ever hitting the ball. – Mickey Mantle
What’s next for you?
BF: I’m working every day to stay present. I think one of my strengths as a business person is staying 2,3,4,1000 steps ahead but it can also lead to missing the moments. Then everything becomes one big blur. Next is now.
Bridget, what are two or three things you know for sure?
BF: Your thoughts are the most limiting part of your capacity. What you focus on expands. Fun is so important – share moments with people. 99% of situations are not that serious when you step back. The ocean is healing.
Rockaway Soda displayed on the NYC Ferry
OG ROCKAWAY SODA cans
Zen Life
I feel a sense of unity with nature. It's Zen for me.
Takashi Yamada
51
Japanese Fashion Company Director, Model, Surfer
West Chester, New York
How were you introduced to surfing?
I surfed for the first time when I was 20 years old. At that time some of my friends had already started surfing together. Short board surfing was very challenging to me, and I didn’t enjoy it much. Longboard surfing was a game changer.
Do you prefer surfing solo or with a friend(s)?
I usually surf with friends. If it’s Rockaway, I don’t mind going by myself, because there are always some familiar faces in the lineup.
Surfing and Travel tend to go hand in hand. Where are the places you’ve surfed?
California, Barbados, Costa Rica, Maui, Oahu in Hawaii, and Bali, Indonesia. I enjoy surfing locally to avoid too much work for traveling.
Are most of your friends surfers? What do you value most about the surf community? (locally & as a whole)
Yes, most of my close friends are surfers. Respect is most important. We share the waves, and I do not say how they surf. But I’m always open to hearing advice from good surfers.
Surfers usually have an ever growing collection of boards. Do you have a collection? What’s your favorite surfboard that you own? And why is it your favorite?
I’m not a collector. I have only 3 longboards, 1 mid length, a shortboard, and now a fish.
My Takayama longboard is my favorite because this is the first board I bought when I moved to NYC, and it's a really easy board.
How has surfing changed you? What does surfing add to your life?
It’s a lot. I try to be healthy because I surf. Surfing is not easy. That's why I always try to improve with kook spirit!
Can you put into words the feeling you have out in the water, riding a wave?
I feel a sense of unity with nature. It's Zen for me.
I always find it so interesting to learn more about a surfer's background. You and I recently did a photo shoot, and you talked about how you began modeling. I especially love stories about people doing new things later in their lives and careers. Could you talk about how you started modeling?
I started professional modeling several years ago. One of our clients asked me to model for them. Other customers saw me modeling and started asking me. Even Esquire Magazine reached out to me. Since then I model several times per season. To be honest, I was really surprised to become a model in my late forties.
What are 2 or 3 things you know for sure?
*Surfing makes a healthy body and life.
*Surfing is the best tool to make friends.
*Surfing releases stress, relieves anxiety, and brings clarity to the mind and the heart.
How can I stop surfing?
Love Will Prevail
There is a before and after Rockaway in my life. Same as there is a before and after my cancer.
Leandro Artigala
50, Artist, Architect, Surfer
Brooklyn, New York
Riley: When did you first start surfing?
Leandro: I started surfing when I was 15, thirty five years ago. Lucas, a good friend of mine, got me into surfing. At that time my friend was traveling every year, and for many years, together with his family to spend their summers in Brazil. A country where surfing was already very popular, particularly in comparison with Buenos Aires where the gap was pretty big for several reasons. First, Buenos Aires doesn’t have an ocean, just a huge river “Río de la Plata”, as a matter of fact the widest world wide. So in order for locals based in BA to get into the ocean they have to drive an average of 4 hours South, to the city of Mar del Plata, a beautiful place along the Atlantic. For this main reason, for many BA locals this was their summer destination city in the region. A city where surfing was already happening, not at the same pace as Brazil, but still. Basically Mar del Plata was the place where I did start and learn how to surf. The second important reason, and not the least, at that time (late 80’s) acquiring surfboards was very challenging and expensive. So Lucas not only gave me that first push literally, but let me use his wetsuits and boards, most of them traditional thrusters. Due to his Brazilian summer adventures, he was the guy with the largest quiver in town.
Riley: What places have you surfed? What makes Rockaway Beach stand out? Why does it hold a special place in your heart?
Leandro: I’ve surfed in Chile, Peru, Brazil, California, and Southern California. Unfortunately I didn't get the chance, nor had the money or the time to travel and explore more points and surfing locations. Anyway those particular destinations that I did get the chance to visit, marked an important time and memory in my life. Rockaway, same as Long Beach, are my favorite places in the world, not only for its surfing, but its formidable people.
Riley: How many boards do you have? Do you have a favorite?
Leandro: At the moment (together with my 16 year old son) we have a total of 6 boards (two longboards, a mid length, and three thrusters). My favorite, the Jose Barahona light blue mid length board, I got for my 50th birthday. I do love all of them.
Riley: Summer surf? Or winter surf? And why?
Leandro: Summer and winter, Surf all year around. Because I love it, surfing is one of my passions. And it truly helps me exponentially with my mental, physical and spiritual health.
Leandro and friend Takashi Yamada at the Community Paddle Out for Asian Solidarity in Rockaway Beach, New York.
Riley: You recently were diagnosed with cancer. You and I have had many conversations about it. I’ve treasured your openness. What did your world look like before the diagnosis? How has life changed since?
Leandro: I’ve already forgotten how my world looked (seven months ago) and how it was to feel well before my diagnosis. I feel like my life was put on hold, that someone took it away. Together with surfing, that’s what I really miss the most.
Riley: The surf community is like no other. I know I’m biased, but the Rockaway surf community is extra special. How has the community and your surf friends supported you during this time?
Leandro: There is a before and after Rockaway in my life. Same as there is a before and after my cancer. I can’t even imagine how it would be to transition into this new life, if I didn’t have Rockaway, if I didn’t have its community, if I didn’t have the friends and wonderful people that I was able to meet along these years through Rockaway.
Leandro’s son Lautaro out with his dad surfing Rockaway waves.
Riley: We met about 3 years ago. The first thing that stood out to me was watching you surf with your son, Lautaro. Why was that important to you? To share your love of surfing with your son. And what did you hope he would gain from your time together in the water?
Leandro: Surfing with my son is and means everything. Although it is quite hard to describe, put it into words and sum it up with one sentence. I’ve never pushed him or imposed it. At one point luckily enough Surfing for him was something quite natural, almost like walking. Without either of us noticing, all of a sudden we both ended up sitting on our boards at the lineup. I hope and believe he’ll get a lot out of the ocean, out of nature, out of surfing; his mind is already, and will literally blow up in such a good and amazing way. Nurturing him with life enriching, unforgettable and memorable experiences. Already touching our hearts and souls; our time in the water will live forever with us.
Riley: Leandro, two or three things you know for sure?
Leandro: Rather three words: “Love Will Prevail”
Leandro recently set up a GoFund Me page to help with all of the unexpected expenses since his cancer diagnosis. Please check it out and help if you can. Thank you.
